revtothelimit - motorbike forum

Both the ones I had developed faults, within the warranty period, that I had to argue tooth and nail with Ovlov UK about.

In fact with the first one, the dealer gave me a big horror story about a developing fault and how I should pay to get it fixed now etc etc, when i pointed out it was still under warranty suddenly the problem was nothing to worry about.

Got shot of my second one and swore to never give them another penny of my money

When the clutch is worn the release force is higher as that's how the weird springs work. If it's cable, change it immediately. If not have the box off for a new clutch and release bearing clean the crap out of the splines and use the correct type and amount of lube in the splines. Have the pedal box out and check and clean and lube everything should make a world of difference

could people of tender age please note....
the moggy clutch is ROD operated ,and exposed to road shit. It needs lubricating....an old fashioned system known as maintenance.....

Mr. Dazzle wrote: Fri Aug 16, 2024 10:13 am Common issue on Cavliers/Saab 900s IIRC, caused by rust.

When I was involved in a pile up in my old Ovlov on the M1 (car written off) I drove it to the hard shoulder and the pedals felt really "off". Turns out they're designed to collapse if you press them beyond a certain force (way higher than you'd ever be able to do normally) so that you don't break your legs if you suffer an impact with your feet pressed hard on said pedals.

or punch a femur through your pelvis.

That's why they tell you to take your feet off the pedals just before impact.

It'll be a coil spring pressure plate, the little fingers that operate the pressure plate pivot on little round rods, if its a very old clutch, the fingers wear and the little pivots stick. We used to have boxes of the things when I was rebuilding clutches.

roadster wrote: Wed Aug 14, 2024 9:02 am The clutch release bearing can also become very stiff to move fore and aft, and although its not a perfect answer a generous spray of wd40 or similar via the operating arm windows and into the bell housing may free it up. You might think this damages clutch plate adhesion but it doesn't in my experience, presumably because any thin liquid is flung off when the engine is running.

They have a carbon release bearing, it doesn't slide on a sleeve like a newer clutch.