revtothelimit - motorbike forum

First part of the roof is the pine planking that makes it look nice inside...

...next is sheets of chipboard glued to 25mm of insulation...

...and the finally is a membrane topped with roofing felt...

Which results in this...

...which you then trim to give this...

The floor is 25mm insulation sheets suspended on clips and the topped with pine planks...

Finally carpet tiles rated for wheeled office chairs installed...

Next job is some trim around the carpet edges and finish painting the outside and it's done. Just need to get the electrician in to install the consumer unit and sockets.

dern wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2025 9:39 pm Finally carpet tiles rated for wheeled office chairs installed...


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Next job is some trim around the carpet edges and finish painting the outside and it's done. Just need to get the electrician in to install the consumer unit and sockets.

You'll have job on sorting those Post-it notes!

Just for info, the kit was £3600 including optional roof and floor insulation, the paint and the rapid base. That included a 30% discount that they were running. I just had to buy pea gravel (£70) and carpet (£150) and to pay someone to wire it up.

The last one was still in good shape after ten years but I replaced the felt with epdm after about seven years which was too late to stop a little water getting to the insulation chipboard. I’ll replace the felt after three or four years this time.

Good value though for home working for me.

Cracking job @dern

dern wrote: Mon Apr 21, 2025 10:14 am Just for info, the kit was £3600 including optional roof and floor insulation, the paint and the rapid base. That included a 30% discount that they were running. I just had to buy pea gravel (£70) and carpet (£150) and to pay someone to wire it up.

The last one was still in good shape after ten years but I replaced the felt with epdm after about seven years which was too late to stop a little water getting to the insulation chipboard. I’ll replace the felt after three or four years this time.

Good value though for home working for me.

When I got my cabin done I coughed up the extra for recycled plastic 'slates'. Glad I did, they look and should be good for 20 years+.

Mistake I made was not putting guttering on from new. Had to have it repainted last year and the two chaps that did it strongly advised doing it. So I did and added 2 big water butts for garden watering and pond topping up.

I brush painted it when new and tried hard to get plenty in the nooks and crannies but still got the odd leak inc where knots shrank. The professionals spray-painted it and got more paint on in one coat than I did in 2. They took several days doing sanding and knot sealing and painted it in under a day. The sanding was mainly because the new paint was water based and I'd used a wood stain type that wasn't. Glad I got the professionals in and I think it was money well spent - wish I'd done it from new (and had guttering fitted).

Finally (just about) finished. Need to run the ethernet cable to the house, get the electrician to add power and find something to trim the front bottom edge.

dern wrote: Sun Apr 27, 2025 9:51 pm Finally (just about) finished. Need to run the ethernet cable to the house, get the electrician to add power and find something to trim the front bottom edge.


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The base on mine is trimmed with decking boards but you'll need a v long, straight cut for that one! (It's low maintenance, weathers well and contrasts with the shed colour. The base on mine is quite deep, particularly at the back because of the slope).

I had those lighting-rail spots installed but had to put daylight lamps on all the work/reading areas. The spots look ok and are easy to install but I never got an even spread of light or got them exactly adjusted for all eventualities. In hindsight I'd have gone LED 'tube' lights and, maybe, uplighters. (Same issue, only worse, in our kitchen. Previous bloke put 8 spots on two lighting bars. If you're working facing a wall you're always standing in your own light shading what you're doing. I put LED 'tubes' under all the cupboards to illuminate the peripheral work surfaces).

Count Steer wrote: Mon Apr 28, 2025 8:16 am

dern wrote: Sun Apr 27, 2025 9:51 pm Finally (just about) finished. Need to run the ethernet cable to the house, get the electrician to add power and find something to trim the front bottom edge.


fin1.jpg

fin2.jpg

fin3.jpg

The base on mine is trimmed with decking boards but you'll need a v long, straight cut for that one! (It's low maintenance, weathers well and contrasts with the shed colour. The base on mine is quite deep, particularly at the back because of the slope).

I had those lighting-rail spots installed but had to put daylight lamps on all the work/reading areas. The spots look ok and are easy to install but I never got an even spread of light or got them exactly adjusted for all eventualities. In hindsight I'd have gone LED 'tube' lights and, maybe, uplighters. (Same issue, only worse, in our kitchen. Previous bloke put 8 spots on two lighting bars. If you're working facing a wall you're always standing in your own light shading what you're doing. I put LED 'tubes' under all the cupboards to illuminate the peripheral work surfaces).

In the last office I put the same led strips above my desk with uplighters. I though I'd give this a go on a dimmer circuit to provide general lighting but will install the led lights as well as otherwise the desks will be in my own shadow with the lights behind me.

Our kitchen is exactly the same, all the work surfaces and the island are all in shadow. Need to sort that out before I lose a finger.

I think that I'm going to use some pressure treated wood across the bottom. I like the idea of the decking board but that long cut would be a major pain.

looks great