revtothelimit - motorbike forum

mangocrazy wrote: Thu Jul 20, 2023 6:20 pm The top yoke and handlebars....

If your solution doesn't work out - apparently clip-on risers are actually an available thing!

That takes the concept of 'clip on risers' to a whole new level! I can't imagine they'd crash very well, and they look almost as bad as my initial attempt at risers.

However, I have a cunning new plan on that front, which I will be revealing in due course... (Just as well that Screwd and Potter have absented themselves, all things considering)

mangocrazy wrote: Thu Jan 30, 2025 9:45 pm I can't imagine they'd crash very well

Give them a chance - I reckon they'd be rather good at it.

I had a similar set from Apex on an old CB -1 that had CBR 900 forks fitted. They're beloved of stunt riders, and actually do crash pretty well. Certainly not worse than OEM clip ones. And if torque strategically you can make it so they pivot rather than bend/break and they should be high enough to miss the tank.

It's certainly another option for those wanting more relaxed ergonomics, so I'm in favour, even if they're not the most aesthetically pleasing type of handlebar. But then we tend to like what we see on a regular basis; the new and different is always a bit of a shock.

For some unknown reason I haven't updated this thread since January. I have no idea why - laziness, I guess.

Or the shame of having to admit I haven't ridden the LC this year at all (prior to today) or having to fess up to the glacial progress I've been making on the black Falco. But today it's the turn of the LC.

What kickstarted my indolent arse was the realisation that CMC Chesterfield (Clay Cross, really) have a two-stroke open day on Sunday 10th August and I'd promised my RGV250-owning mate that I'd see him there. So it would be sensible to actually take it for a shakedown run to a) make sure it still worked and b) verify that all the stuff I'd done to it over the winter had actually improved it. I'm delighted to report that the answer to both queries is an unqualified 'yes'.

The only thing that no longer works properly is the LH indicator. The rear LH indicator stays on permanently, indicating either a blown bulb in the front LH indicator, or a bullet connector that's worked loose. No biggie.

But the big news is that I now have a clutch that works perfectly, does not drag, allows me to find neutral easily every time and is lighter in operation. Also gear shifts are smoother, lighter, more positive and far less agricultural. And to top it off the bike now steers as it should; it holds a line beautifully through corners, the steering is lighter and the bike just feels much more flickable.

So my time spent over the winter in a freezing cold shed has all been worthwhile. I'm really pleased about that.

And riding it today has made me realise just how much fun the bike is.

The naughty force is strong in this one...

I was bought up with AC & LC RD's and have a real soft spot for them and love the sound of them just ticking over, could listen to that all day.
I am stuck on 125's so cant ride anything like that but love seeing them at bike meets.

Got any recent pictures of yours ?

The most recent one I have was taken over a year ago in the back garden (shown below). I'll be attending the Two-Stroke meet on Sunday so will be taking photos of lots of stinkwheels then and will post up a selection.

I suspect one or two of the old girl may creep in...

Well done.

In other news, the Duke 690 sailed through its MoT today, and I finally got front and rear brakes on the black Falco bled to my satisfaction. The rear brake in particular is an absolute tw@t to bleed, manly because the caliper bleed nipple is at the absolute bottom of the system. Ths is the only way I've managed to get it done:



Next job is cutting and shutting an RSV Mille exhaust link pipe to fit on a Falco. There is a very high likelihood of this going badly (read expensively) wrong.

If the nipple is at the lowest point, would you have more success using a syringe to push fluid up through the system?

A_morti wrote: Fri Aug 08, 2025 12:06 am If the nipple is at the lowest point, would you have more success using a syringe to push fluid up through the system?

Probably so, but I did try that and found that there was extreme resistance to me trying to force brake fluid into the caliper via the (opened) bleed nipple. I don't know what would be causing this, but gave up and went back to a routine that I'd had success with before.

What about sucking from the in situ nipple ( ) with a syringe.

I mean, it's all a bit moot now, you're not going to go back and do it again

mangocrazy wrote: Thu Aug 07, 2025 4:58 pm In other news, the Duke 690 sailed through its MoT today, and I finally got front and rear brakes on the black Falco bled to my satisfaction. The rear brake in particular is an absolute tw@t to bleed, manly because the caliper bleed nipple is at the absolute bottom of the system. Ths is the only way I've managed to get it done:



Bleeding the Falco rear brake.jpg


Next job is cutting and shutting an RSV Mille exhaust link pipe to fit on a Falco. There is a very high likelihood of this going badly (read expensively) wrong.

Loving the shock reservoir bracket.... Perhaps a coat of Finnegan's finest is in order

Mr. Dazzle wrote: Sat Aug 09, 2025 12:05 pm What about sucking from the in situ nipple ( ) with a syringe.

I mean, it's all a bit moot now, you're not going to go back and do it again

Yeah, no plans to revisit it, lots more to get on with. Your method would almost certainly work, but the Falco is 'blessed' with a fluid reservoir the size of a mosquito's pisspot, and would need topping up constantly.

..... wrote: Sat Aug 09, 2025 12:12 pm

mangocrazy wrote: Thu Aug 07, 2025 4:58 pm In other news, the Duke 690 sailed through its MoT today, and I finally got front and rear brakes on the black Falco bled to my satisfaction. The rear brake in particular is an absolute tw@t to bleed, manly because the caliper bleed nipple is at the absolute bottom of the system. Ths is the only way I've managed to get it done:

Bleeding the Falco rear brake.jpg

Next job is cutting and shutting an RSV Mille exhaust link pipe to fit on a Falco. There is a very high likelihood of this going badly (read expensively) wrong.

Loving the shock reservoir bracket.... Perhaps a coat of Finnegan's finest is in order

That bracket was short-lived, fracturing (doubtless due to vibration) on a French autoroute and was quickly replaced with multiple cable ties...

With the LC getting an outing yesterday, and the weather forecast staying peachy, it was time to give the Falco a run out. Over the winter I'd treated the old girl to an MWR Performance air filter and was very interested to see what difference it had made. And by my seat of the pants dyno, it was quite a lot. It definitely felt like there was more midrange and that carried through to the top end; in fact it was a case of more everywhere. The MWR also boosted the intake noise, which became quite addictive.

So definitely a tick in the box for the MWR.

Every time I ride the Falco I'm impressed again with how supremely capable it is. It's certainly as fast as I need, but it also handles beautifully. It has real poise and makes covering distances quickly really easy. It's easy to forget that this is basically a 25 year old design. It certainly doesn't feel like it. Today I rode over some of my favourite roads between Sheffield and Stafford (and back again) and it was an absolute delight. And the more relaxed riding position just feels completely natural. I might try and reduce the bar rise a bit, but it would only be for cosmetic purposes. As it stands it's pretty much bang on for these old bones.

Here's a pic of the old girl, relaxing in the evening sunshine.

Bit of a 'holy thread resurrection, Batman', but here's the latest from Mango Towers (whether you wanted it or not)...

The Black Falco is still waiting on getting its indicators sorted before I can sell it on, the VFR (also due for sale in the short to medium term) has been repatriated from the south of France and is awaiting final pre-sale fettling, the KTM Duke 690(R) is currently in France and the LC is at a friend's gaff as I don't have space.

Which only leaves me with the Red Falco. And on that front, I have been acquiring some goodies...

The parts in question are made by Gilles Tooling and are actually sold as an official Yamaha upgrade part for the MT09 and derivatives. To give them their official title they are '2DGT-03 Handlebar Risers' and the Yamaha part number is 2PP-FHBRS-00. They come with a very comprehensive owners manual (in German and English) and a copy of the official TuV certification document. They will also fit FZ1, FZ6, MT07, XT1200, XJ6 and XJR1300 Yamaha, but that's of less interest to me.

What is of definite interest to me is the fact that they offer a very wide range of adjustability. The design means they can be moved forward and back over a 21mm range and can be raised by 15mm in 5mm increments by use of spacers. With no spacers employed the distance between the top yoke and the bar mid position is 94mm. With all the supplied spacers (3 of) this can increase to 109mm.

The MT09 SP bar risers I'm currently using measure 120mm from top yoke to bar mid position and while this makes for a very relaxed riding position, I'd like a bar position that's a bit lower and a bit further forward. Theses Gilles risers can offer me a drop of just over an inch (26mm) and forward movement of 21mm, with fine adjustment in between maximum and minimum positions. I'm pretty sure I should be able to find a setting that's just right for me.

Anyway, they say a picture is worth a thousand words, so here is one of my current risers compared with the Gilles ones:




The range of adjustment is fairly obvious, I think. There's some pretty clever design gone into these. The TuV document also states that the aluminium used for the risers is 7075-T6, which is the strongest grade of aluminium that is commercially available. I'm fairly certain that the OE Yamaha risers aren't made out of 7075-T6...

Here's a side view of the Gilles risers:




The laser-etched markings are clearly visible, as is the detail of the clamping arrangement. The risers are hard anodised and the machining is a thing of beauty (well, to me it is anyway). The next pic shows the end-on views of the risers.




Fore and aft adjustment is facilitated by use of a T-slot and standard M10 bolt with 17mm across-flats head. The supplied bolts are 65mm long to allow use of the full range of shims. I'm planning on using the risers with no shims, so have ordered some shorter M10 bolts in 10.9 high tensile steel so there's not too much bolt thread protruding. As these haven't arrived yet, that's as far as I can go at present.

Once they've arrived, I'll update with more pics...

I like Gilles stuff,quality looking and well made.