Morris Minor Clutch- help

[Noggin]

A mate has a 1965 (I think) Morris Minor. She can’t drive it as the clutch is far too heavy (she drove it long enough that it now causes ligament pain if she’s tries to drive it now )

Anyway - I told her that I was sure I would know someone that would be able to advise a solution

Hopefully one or more of you guys might have some suggestions?!

[Mr Moofo]

I know someone who is a Morris Minor fan , and owner. I can drop in a WhatsApp. By 1965 did they have a syncro mesh gear box?

He is an engineer - so he is likely to comeback as say "well, they are all like that"
I will try him this evening

[Noggin]

Thank you, that would be awesome

I’ll message and ask about synchromesh!!

[KungFooBob]

I suspect the A series in the MM has a cable pull. A conversion to hydraulic should make it a bit easier.

[David]

She needs to lubricate ( or get someone to do same) the clutch operating rods ....or replace the whole shit show with hydraulics...and while you are at it swap out the pathetic drum brakes with discs from a Herald.

[JackyJoll]

I suspect the A series in the MM has a cable pull. A conversion to hydraulic should make it a bit easier.

I can’t see a cable. There are things that might get sticky if neglected.

[KungFooBob]

I was guessing at cable change, but yeah rod might benefit from a lube.

Hydraulic would be a lower maintenance, easier action solution (if a teeny bit more expensive than having your rod lubed).

[Count Steer]

From what the OP said it sounds like it has always been heavy and it's eventually broken the driver! So yup, hydraulic.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

Buy an automatic

[Mr Moofo]

@Noggin
His answer is:
"Is it a 948 or 1098cc car? That can make a slight difference as the larger engined car has a larger clutch. Most 1963 cars have the larger engine.
The clutch should generally be very light but the linkage from the clutch housing to the clutch pedal is mechanical and is very prone to wear. The clutch pedal pivot sits on the same shaft as the brake pedal. It is a poor design"


Sounds like a little bit of TLC may sort it - or she needs to change car!

[roadster]

The clutch release bearing can also become very stiff to move fore and aft, and although its not a perfect answer a generous spray of wd40 or similar via the operating arm windows and into the bell housing may free it up. You might think this damages clutch plate adhesion but it doesn't in my experience, presumably because any thin liquid is flung off when the engine is running.

[Wossname]

They had synchro on 2,3 and 4, but not on first.

[Noggin]

Buy an automatic

The Morris was a gift from her hubby - so no!! LOL But I might prod hubby into buying some WD40 and trying to get the clutch moving better! LOL

@Noggin
His answer is:
"Is it a 948 or 1098cc car? That can make a slight difference as the larger engined car has a larger clutch. Most 1963 cars have the larger engine.
The clutch should generally be very light but the linkage from the clutch housing to the clutch pedal is mechanical and is very prone to wear. The clutch pedal pivot sits on the same shaft as the brake pedal. It is a poor design"


Sounds like a little bit of TLC may sort it - or she needs to change car!

Thank you, that's awesome. I've not heard back from her, but they are travelling back to the UK at the mo for a memorial thingy. I'll send her that info and some of the other stuff.

Much appreciated

[JackyJoll]

It is a poor design"

It’s a design that can bring these stiffness problems when modern-day owners don’t bother carrying out the service tasks.

The pedals pivot on the floor because all the (even) older cars, built as a rolling chassis before getting a body, had that pedal arrangement.

[Mr. Dazzle]

Plus floor mounted pedals are just cooler anyway.

[Count Steer]

I had an unusual pedal related problem on an early Scirocco. Just about to set off from Chester to London after collecting the missus from work. Depressed the clutch and it felt a bit strange and I couldn't get the car in gear very easily.

Called the RAC. Turned out the bulkhead on which the pedals were mounted had cracked/torn!

The RAC man did a temp fix with a metal plate. Limped home with as few gear changes as poss, unpacked and stayed home. Had to get the plate welded to the bulkhead.

[Count Steer]

Oh yeah, Moggy Thou story. Bloke on my Uni course had one. Driving up the M1 got pulled by the rozzers who had been about to overtake him.

'What speed were you doing?'
'60'
'How do you know?'
'Cos that's as fast as it will go'.

As they went past, with that big circular speedo, they could see the speedo wasn't working.

They let him off for giving an honest answer.

Just said 'Get it fixed'.

[JackyJoll]

Plus floor mounted pedals are just cooler anyway.

Hotrod gear!

[Mr. Dazzle]

Called the RAC. Turned out the bulkhead on which the pedals were mounted had cracked/torn!

Common issue on Cavliers/Saab 900s IIRC, caused by rust.

When I was involved in a pile up in my old Ovlov on the M1 (car written off) I drove it to the hard shoulder and the pedals felt really "off". Turns out they're designed to collapse if you press them beyond a certain force (way higher than you'd ever be able to do normally) so that you don't break your legs if you suffer an impact with your feet pressed hard on said pedals.

[David]

good, ovlovs, arent they? mine has just gone to scrap...bluddy garage left the radiator cap loose....