Clutch replacement - friction plates only or both?

[Beancounter]

Bike is a 2017 Ducati Scrambler Icon 800 with 13k miles on it.

The clutch is slipping under hard acceleration. Initially I thought it was down to there being not enough free-play at the lever however regardless of the free play the clutch is slipping under hard acceleration so I'm guessing the clutch is its last legs. It's also a bugger when changing down and trying to find neutral.

Never had to change a clutch before - should I change both friction plates and steel plates or should changing the friction plates be enough? Asking because I can buy just friction or both friction/steel.

[Yorick]

When we were racing, we only changed the friction plates.
And we added stronger springs.

[Beancounter]

When we were racing, we only changed the friction plates.
And we added stronger springs.

Ta. I can't imagine the steel plates have worn in 13k miles but could be wrong.

Pardon my ignorance, why add stronger springs? I assume that would require more effort at the lever? This is my missus bike FWIW - short fingers/small hands.

[Yorick]

When we were racing, we only changed the friction plates.
And we added stronger springs.

Ta. I can't imagine the steel plates have worn in 13k miles but could be wrong.

Pardon my ignorance, why add stronger springs? I assume that would require more effort at the lever? This is my missus bike FWIW - short fingers/small hands.

Hmm. Maybe. They squeeze the plates together stronger.

But we were in our 20s.

Just try friction plates first.

[Yorick]

short fingers/small hands.

I'll avoid the obvious joke

[Eclipse]

You might find this interesting

[Beancounter]

short fingers/small hands.

I'll avoid the obvious joke

Unlike you to be so restrained.

You might find this interesting

Thanks, hadn't seen that.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

If you're having trouble changing gear it probably needs both, the steels may have warped.

Stick new springs in while you've got it apart.

How much are the plates?

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

When we were racing, we only changed the friction plates.
And we added stronger springs.

LCs only ever need friction plates, the gearbox oil doesn't get got enough to affect the steel plates

[Yorick]

When we were racing, we only changed the friction plates.
And we added stronger springs.

LCs only ever need friction plates, the gearbox oil doesn't get got enough to affect the steel plates

It's like brake discs and pads. One set are designed to grip more, then wear out.

[Beancounter]

If you're having trouble changing gear it probably needs both, the steels may have warped.

Stick new springs in while you've got it apart.

How much are the plates?

£103 for friction only, £189-£210 for both.

Re. changing gear, it's more an issue finding neutral than anything else and is only really a problem when trying to find neutral whilst at a standstill, finding neutral whilst rolling to a stop isn't a problem. Part of me thinks it's more an issue with my missus (not a criticism, she's only been riding a few years and doesn't do that many miles.)

[Gregor]

If you're having trouble changing gear it probably needs both, the steels may have warped.

Stick new springs in while you've got it apart.

How much are the plates?

£103 for friction only, £189-£210 for both.

Re. changing gear, it's more an issue finding neutral than anything else and is only really a problem when trying to find neutral whilst at a standstill, finding neutral whilst rolling to a stop isn't a problem. Part of me thinks it's more an issue with my missus (not a criticism, she's only been riding a few years and doesn't do that many miles.)

Change the missus, it’ll be cheaper in the long run

[Skub]

I'd do the heap when I was in there,because I hate doing the same job twice.

[KungFooBob]

Sounds a bit like the clutch is dragging, you've already tried adjusting the lever, right?

[Yorick]

Sounds a bit like the clutch is dragging, you've already tried adjusting the lever, right?

Good thinking Batman. There's also sometimes some adjustment where cable is onto engine casing.

[KungFooBob]

It'll be a hydraulic clutch on a Ducati.

Just need to make sure the lever isn't applying pressure to the clutch master cylinder push rod when not pulled.

If it's got aftermarket Chinese levers they sometimes do it.

[dern]

Measure the metal plates and see if they're in spec.

[Bustaspoke]

It sounds like clutch drag to me,are you sure it's adjusted correct & if it's hydraulic is the M/C & slave cylinder working properly,does the bike try to creep frowards when it's in gear with the clutch lever pulled in?
I wouldn't be buying the clutch plates until I've measured the friction plates that are in there

[Beancounter]

Sounds a bit like the clutch is dragging, you've already tried adjusting the lever, right?

Yep, well partially. Tried setting the free play at the lever and it makes no difference to the problem. Have adjusted the cable at the clutch casing end but not had a chance to ride the bike yet, hoping to do that later this evening.

It'll be a hydraulic clutch on a Ducati.

Just need to make sure the lever isn't applying pressure to the clutch master cylinder push rod when not pulled.

If it's got aftermarket Chinese levers they sometimes do it.

Cable clutch on this one and it does have aftermarket cheap levers - those are required so the missus can comfortably use the clutch, the original levers sit too far out even on the closest setting. Haven't tried expensive aftermarket levers but happy to consider them if it helps.

[KungFooBob]

I'd put the original clutch lever back on (if you have it). Then go for a ride and see if it still slips.

If it doesn't then you need to fork for some premium levers (or work out where to Dremel the cheapies).